Japan in Autumn - Nagano

Nagano is just a couple of hours north of Tokyo and we got there late morning on the Shinkansen after transferring from a local commuter train out of Tokyo.  Having seen an Instagram post on the cedar promenade at Togakushi Shrine, I made that a priority on my itinerary.  We dropped off our luggage at the hotel before catching the express bus to the shrine.  We took the bus right up to Okusha, the upper shrine, as it is a long hike up from the lower shrine, and we wouldn't be able to make it back to the bus before sunset in these short Novemebr days.

The cedar promenade is as stunning as I'd seen in photos. The first part of the trail is an easy hike through the cedars but the actual climb to the shrine is quite steep and slippery.  The hike back provided yet another pleasurable perspective with fall colours emerging.  Aside from seeing the spectacular cedars, the visit was a refreshing change after the city.

The second morning we headed for the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, the top item on our Nagano list.  It was another hour long hike up to the park from the bus stop but made much more palatable with the gorgeous fall colours.  The monkeys were hilarious and it was a fun visit.

We made it back to Nagano with a couple of hours left before sunset and after a coffee break, we decided to check out the Obasute rice fields since it was just a half hour train ride from Nagano. 

The impressive Shinkansen trains that took us around Japan during the 15 day trip without a hitch.  Every train we booked was on time to the minute.  Boarding and deboarding was swift  with passengers (inluding ourselves) who all seemed well-trained to keep the relentless pace of these trains.  

The road to the Togakushi Shrine was at peak for fall colours

Tori gate at the entrance to the Upper Shrine

Cedar-lined trail to the shrine

These are komainu, mythical lion dogs, often used to guard shinto shrines, believed to ward off evil spirits and protect sacred grounds. 

The cedar promenade continues on the other side of the red gatehouse

The trail up to the shrine with a stream running beside

The shrine itself is an anti-climax after the specatcular hike

The hike back 

The road to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park was also peaking with brilliant reds

More cedars on the way to the Snow Monkey Park

The hot spring where the monkeys hang out

Parenting can be tedious

"I've had it!

Nothing like a dip in the onsen to soother the nerves

A different perspective on the hike back

We had a coffee break before we headed out to Obasute for the rice fields.  Autumn is chestnut season and this dessert is covered with chestnut paste, inside and out!

The Obasute rice fields with the town in the distance.  This is not quite the season for rice fields viewing as there is no water but seeing the terraced rice fields was still interesting.

And this train station seems out of a movie set

Japan in Autumn - Tokyo Pt 2

 We stayed in Shinjuku, one of the busiest hubs in Tokyo with countless sites within walking distance. The area around Shinjuku station with its busy crossings is reminiscent of Shibuya but not quite on the same scale.  I revisited the area Omoide Yokocho with countless little restaurants in the narrow alleys on our way to and from the metro.  Shinjuku National Garden is also a 15 minute walk from our hotel and we spent a morning there before going into central Tokyo for our long anticipated sukiyaki lunch.  This was followed by an amazing experience at Teamlabs Borderless which truly wowed the senses.    

The sumo wrestling show we attended was not quite the real thing as we did not hit the sumo wrestling circuit at the right time or city, but it did give us an idea of what it's like.  I mentioned earlier that the two museums on our itinerary were both closed so we did more exploring of their neighbourhoods with suitable breaks in cool coffee shops.  Tokyo, with so much neon, is a great place for night shots and I managed to capture a few.  

Shinjuku National Garden 

The iconic Docomo Yoyogi building once again in view

A delicate capsule reminiscent of a bonsai garden

Emerging fall colours in the garden

There was a chrysanthemum exhibit celebrating autumn in the garden, showcasing different varieties.

One of the highlights of the day was a sukiyaki lunch at Ningyocho Imahan Honten.  The food and presentation was superb and memorable.  The restaurant is attached to its own butcher and produce specialty stores in two buildings.

Appetizers 

Main meal with melt in your mouth wagyu

The impressive Azabudai Hills Mori Tower which houses Teamlabs Borderless in the basement 

 

The entrance corridor leading to a collection of rooms with different sensory experiences

Entry  room where everyone just gawked

Sitting on the floor you would be totally engulfed in a shimmering magical world

The last room where you can colour your own aquatic creature.  They will scan it and it will show up on the wall with other creations.  I could flip my seahorse by just touching it or even move it to different position.  Of course you could also order all kinds of merchandise with your creation on it!

View from the  Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, a short distance away

Sumo Warm up exercises

Sumo wrestling demo

Museum of Contemporary Art - closed, can't even get on the grounds

Plant-filled coffee shop in the middle of nowhere

Omoide Yokocho area in Shinjuku with alley ways full of street food stalls in the morning and at night

Ginza

Cats seem to be great attention getters - this one sits atop the Nissan Aura in the glitzy Nissan building at the Nissan Crossing in Ginza

This 3D animated one moves atop a building on a billboard right at Shinjuku crossing, drawing huge crowds below, cameras ready waiting for it to emerge every few minutes in between the ads

Shinjuku Crossing

This wraps up our Tokyo visit, barely touching the surface of that amazing city, definitely one calling for multiple visits.